Portuguese Filigree
history told in fine threads of gold or silver
Over the centuries, Portuguese goldsmiths have told stories with metal threads, embedded traditions, and immortalised symbols of cultural identity in filigree pieces. This ancient technique, rooted in the north of the country with major production hubs in Gondomar and Póvoa de Lanhoso, is a national heritage that showcases the technical skill of its producers and the excellence of Portuguese jewellery craftsmanship.
The technique of filigree was initially developed in regions such as Mesopotamia, Cappadocia, and Western Anatolia around the third millennium BC. From these regions, the skill of working precious metals spread worldwide, including to Europe, Persia, India, and China. Archaeological remains show that as early as the third millennium BC, the peoples inhabiting the Iberian Peninsula were working with precious metals like gold and silver.
In Portugal, jewellery-making began to flourish in the northern region during the Middle Ages, with the creation of sacred art pieces using techniques like chasing, soldering, and chiselling. The quality control of precious metals was strict, and the goldsmith profession was highly regulated. In the 18th century, during the Age of Discoveries, the abundance of precious metals from the colonies allowed filigree to reach new levels of sophistication. This was a time of transformation for Portugal, reflected in the filigree pieces, where each twist and turn of the wire symbolised the journey and expansion of the Portuguese empire.
Filigree continued to evolve. In the 19th and 20th centuries, as Portugal faced political and social changes, the technique of filigree also adapted. Instead of being confined to traditional styles, it began to incorporate contemporary influences, remaining relevant and enriched with modern touches. During this period, filigree began to be appreciated for its technical complexity, and pieces started to be signed, giving them the status of artworks.
In 2008, Portuguese filigree was certified, making it mandatory to display the hallmark of the Assay Office on each piece. This mark attests to the quality of the precious metals used and their manual origin. It was registered in the National Inventory of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2023. The production of filigree is a meticulous artisanal process that transforms the finest threads of gold or silver into intricate works of art. It all starts with a design, the first tangible object of the creative dreams. Then, the precious metals are heated until they liquefy and are poured into molds to form long bars, which are hammered, drawn out, reduced, and passed through a series of dies to obtain the finest threads, which can be less than 0.2 mm thick. The threads are twisted in pairs, annealed, and flattened to create the characteristic filigree cord.
The magic happens when the frame of the piece, made from a metal strip, defines the spaces to be filled. With dexterity, the fillers fill the empty spaces with twisted wires in sinuous patterns, like spirals, S-shapes, coils, or curls. After filling, the piece is soldered to join all the components without leaving the solder visible. It is then shaped and adjusted with hammers and pliers. The final finishes include whitening, brushing, and polishing, which remove impurities and restore the shine of the piece, resulting in a unique work that reveals the skill and dedication of its makers. As a living art in constant transformation, the finest threads of Portuguese filigree continue to create the typical hearts of Viana, complex rings, adorned tears, crucifixes or profane sculptures, intricate chokers, daring dresses, and even representations of large animals. The creativity of the master filigree artists, supported by protected techniques, proves that the immortality of this art, which adapts, inspires, and is reborn with new generations.
