Camisolas Poveiras
knitted with longing and resilience
The history of the Camisola Poveira begins at sea. These were warm armours for the brave men who faced the waves and the cold to sustain their families. Knitted by the women who stayed ashore, the sweaters were tactile symbols of longing.
Handcrafted or mechanically made with wool from the Serra da Estrela sheep, naturally coloured, rectangular-shaped, and with long sleeves, they were initially simple and functional. However, they evolved into expressions of identity, adorned with maritime symbols in cross-stitch in black and red. The design of the sweaters adapted to social changes and fashion trends, always anchored in the maritime life of Póvoa de Varzim.
The earliest records of the Camisola Poveira are found on votive tablets from the 18th century, wooden pieces offered in gratitude for survival at sea. Since 1868, illustrations, engravings, paintings, and photographs have shown that the sweater was the typical attire of the Poveiro fisherman, also worn on festive days. On February 27, 1892, a terrible storm claimed the lives of 105 fishermen, leading to the sweaters being replaced by mourning attire or falling out of use as they evoked painful memories. After the creation of the Grupo Folclórico Poveiro in 1936, the sweater was renewed. Minhoto motifs gave way to symbols of the sea and family identifiers.
Elected as a symbol of local culture, the Camisola Poveira achieved international recognition, standing out in exhibitions and in National Geographic. The film Ala-Arriba (1942) increased its visibility. Between the 1950s and 1970s, the production and sale of the sweaters peaked, with many women knitting pieces to supplement the household economy. In 1968, Grace Kelly was photographed wearing a Camisola Poveira, bringing the fame of the garment beyond borders. However, in the 1980s, interest in the traditional attire decreased, despite ongoing efforts to promote it. The commercial relevance of the Camisola Poveira faced a significant decline.
A turnaround occurred in March 2021, when American designer Tory Burch launched a piece that replicated a Camisola Poveira, sold for 695 euros, but claimed inspiration from Baja California in Mexico. This misunderstanding generated a strong cultural defense movement in Portugal, culminating in Burch's acknowledgment of the mistake and reigniting interest in the traditional Poveiro attire. The Póvoa de Varzim City Council created a digital platform to support the commercialization of the sweaters and promoted courses to expand and qualify artisanal production. In 2021, the inauguration of the Interpretative and Training Centre marked the renewal of the Camisola Poveira, consolidating support for artisans. That same year, 80 apprentices underwent specialized training, and the following year, the number of trainees doubled. For many years, the Municipal Museum of Ethnography and History of Póvoa de Varzim has also been a key institution in preserving and promoting the sweaters.
The certification of the Camisola Poveira in September 2022 established production standards and sought to protect the meaning of the pieces, allowing innovation while respecting tradition. This story reflects the journey of a community and the universality of cultural expression through textile art. The Camisola Poveira are emblems of resilience, uniting generations around the warmth of a tradition that, despite the tides of history, sails steadfastly into the future.
